My London Journal

My London Journal
View from Westminster Abbey

Saturday, 21 July 2007

July 19: Day Trip to Oxford and the Bodleian Library

We were all so excited to be going back to Oxford! There was so much to see and so many authors connected to the university or city.

We started the day at the Bodleian Library at the University. http://www.bodley.ox.ac.uk/ This library was originally a school of divinity and the main hall (used as the infirmary in the Harry Potter movies) was used as the examination room where students would defend their theses. This building, built in the 15th century, was incredibly beautiful and ancient. The Divinity School contains an exquisite ceiling of intricate stone carvings. We then moved through to the Convocation House. Our guide told us that these rooms were also used by Kings and Parliaments during political upheavals in England.

We then traveled across the road to the "new" library built in the 1930's. The collection is housed on floors beneath the surface with a somewhat antiquated system of retrieval. Again, we found that there was no clear system of classification and the library relied on what our guide affectionately referred to as "the troglodytes" to find any requested items. They were the only ones who knew where things were.

We also entered the Radcliffe Camera an 18th century rotunda that now serves as an elegant reading room.

After our tour, we descended on the gift shop, where I "supported" the library with several purchases. My favorite item is cloth wall hanging with the pledge each student is required to memorize and recite in order to get a library card. I'm definitely taking that back to show my students!

We all ended up at Oxford's famous Eagle and Child (The Bird and the Baby) Pub for lunch where the whole group sat together for a meal. This pub is the site of many meetings of the "Inklings"----the group of literary friends that included C. S. Lewis and Tolkien---and the scene of some of their famous debates.

Mike has arranged a tour of C. S. Lewis sites with a local tour guide who had grown up with Lewis' stepson. It was disappointing that there were many sites not really kept up and that we could not tour Lewis' home (it is only available through private bookings), but the highlight was
a visit to Lewis' church and burial site, Holy Trinity Church. We were pleasantly surprised by the Narnia Window, a beautiful etching in glass of Aslan and other characters of Narnia. We each sat in the pew that was used by Lewis and where it is said that he was inspired to write the Screwtape Letters.

I was disappointed to find that Christ's Church College was closing by the time we got there, so I missed my chance to see the Great Hall that is used in the Harry Potter movies. I was also wanting to see the Charles Dodgson (Lewis Carroll) displays and the "Alice Window." Ah well, maybe on my next trip to England....

Friday, 20 July 2007

July 18: Visit to Lakes District

Dr. Welsh, Ms. Wright, Edie and I got up very bright and early on Wednesday morning to catch the train going to the Lake District of England. According to Peter, our guide at Mountaingoat Tours, it is listed by National Geographic as one of the 50 sites of the world that should be seen in one's lifetime. It was easy to see why--the most vivid green countryside I have ever seen and classic stone walls intersecting the farm lands. The lake was clear and the surrounding forests were rainforest-thick. Our tour guide took us on a bus ride (at times a bit unnerving!)to the tops of the surrounding hills where we could look down on exquisite valleys and up to locations of the remnants of ancient Roman roads.

The towns in the district were also beautiful. The buildings were made of old stones and wood and (again according to Peter the guide )any new construction was required to retain the authentic look of the older architecture.

On our tour of the area, we stopped at Dove Cottage, the home of William Wordsworth. I was a bit bummed that we couldn't go in, but there wasn't time on our tour. I satisfied myself with seeing the outside of the house and peeking in the garden.



The highlight of our tour was a visit to Hill Top, the home of Beatrix Potter and the place that served as inspiration for the illustrations of some of her books. This home is a time capsule from Miss Potter's time there, full of her furniture and favorite things. For information about Hill Top Farm, go to: http://www.visitcumbria.com/amb/hilltop.htm

Tuesday, 17 July 2007

July 8: Services at St. Paul's Cathedral and walking tour of Guild area




Our first Sunday in London began with services at St. Paul's Cathedral, famous to most Americans as the site of Prince Charles' wedding to Lady Diana.
It was an incredible feeling to be in such a beautiful and historic place. The service, however, was the real treat---absolutely incredible music and very reverent and inspirational.



After the service, I walked through the Guild area with some of my new friends. One of the younger students wore very cute shoes to the services but was in extreme pain by the time we went home. I was very grateful for my ugly, sensible shoes! I think our schedule shows us coming back to the Guild area at the end of our stay here.






July 17: St. Paul's Cathedral Library

Today our class had a very special privilege: a very rare tour of the library at St. Paul's Cathedral.

After meeting our guide, Joe Wisdom (St. Paul's librarian), we were given a choice of an enclosed spiral staircase leading way up to the top of the cathedral or an open one. Being the height-phobe that I am, I opted for enclosed (which pretty much forced everyone else on that path as well). It was fun to climb up this narrow staircase, but it was absolutely breathtaking to see the cathedral from the viewpoint we came to. We led through the media platform (with the view famous from the wedding of Diana and Charles) to a room that housed a model of the design by Christopher Wren that was rejected. Though this was intended to be the original library, it had never been used as one. Mr. Wisdom gave as some very interesting information about the political and religious atmosphere of Wren's day and the attempts to influence Wren's design. We were all struck by the similarity in design to the U. S. Capital building. We then traveled across to the actual library location, with Mr. Wisdom pulling out great brass keys to unlock massive wooden doors at each location.

The library was another scene right out of a movie. It was small and dimly-lit to protect the books. Books lined the walls all the way to the ceiling. Mr. Wisdom gave us more information about the purpose of the library, which is to serve the church and its clergy. We also discussed methods of preservation (no ink pens allowed!). With all the history surrounding this cathedral, it is easy to forget that it is first and foremost a church.

At the end of our tour, Mr. Wisdom again offered the class the option of taking the open or enclosed staircase. I was very glad that no one had to miss out on the experience of descending the grand staircase just because I can't take heights. Mr. Wisdom very kindly accompanied me down the enclosed staircase, while the rest of the student enjoyed the beautiful open one.

I know that this will be one of my most treasured memories because it was such an honor to be given a special tour. One could spend at least a week in London just studying St. Paul's Cathedral!

July 15: Day trip to Stonehenge and Winchester


This was also an extra trip arranged outside of our library studies. Several British Studies students were taken on a wonderful bus trip to Stonehenge and Winchester Cathedral. (Again, a real bargain for £10). Thank you to Ms. Wright for the picture shown above.


Stonehenge:


Tourists are no longer able to go right up to the stones so we walked around the structure on paved paths. I didn't realize that there had originally been much more to the site and that there were other stone structures close by. (Avebury, which is 25 miles north of Stonehenge) http://www.stonehenge.co.uk/about.htm

Impressions: First, I was astounded to find that Stonehenge is right off the highway, clearly in view! That really takes you by surprise. The other thing that impressed me was what I perceived as a reverance for the site from those visiting, whether because of its age or its possible link to ancient (and still practiced)religions.

Fun stuff: people playing around with camera shots to appear to be holding the structure or leaning on it; the black birds (ravens?) that live among the rocks---adds to the eerie atmostphere; the beautiful rolling farm lands and grazing sheep that surround the site.

Winchester:

We started our tour of this quaint old town by passing through the West Gate, an ancient remnant of the original town structure. During Saxon times, Winchester was the capital of England under King Alfred (Alfred the Great). Some speculate that it is also the location of the legendary King Arthur's Camelot. The Cathedral at Winchester was begun in 1079.

In 1222, King Henry III built the Great Hall, which we toured and were delighted to find held what is fabled to be the Round Table of King Arthur's court.


The Cathedral was as beautiful as expected, and the evensong service was just beginning, filling the cathedral with glorious music. The cathedral is also the burial site of author Jane Austen.

All of this and much more is found on the website for Winchester: http://www.visitwinchester.co.uk/site/home

Unfortunately, my memories of Winchester Cathedral will probably always be about having my camera stolen there. (Thank you again to Ms. Wright and the Winchester web site for the above pictures) An upside to the whole thing, though, was the usher at the cathedral who very kindly helped me retrace my steps to try to locate the camera and was most earnest in looking in all possible places for it. My small revenge on the thief: the batteries were dead.;-)

July 14: Day trip to Dover and Canterbury


Today we set off on a special bus trip to Dover Castle and Canterbury.
the castle at Dover was exceptional. It towers over the sea and is a important defensive location. It played an important role in military history during World War I & II. Its history goes back to Roman Britain, where it served as the most important naval town.
I loved going through the Medieval tunnels. They were exactly as one would picture them: damp stone walls, slippery stone floors with mysterious, dark chambers scattered here and there off the main tunnel. The doorways were ancient wood and iron structures. A little spooky, but very exciting.
After the tunnels, we went into the Keep and climbed the stone circular stairways to the top of the castle. What a view! I took some great pictures, but those were stolen with my camera. The one above is one of two I had on my first memory card.
We had hoped to get to the World War II tunnels, but ran out of time. If fact, by the time Edie and I got down the stairs and out to the Keep Yard, it was almost time to meet at the bus. Unfortunately, we took what we thought was an exit and turned out to be the winding route through a military museum. After that we accidentally walked right by the exit, but as we were turning around to go in the right direction, we ran into Amy C. coming to rescue us. Needless to say, we encountered a few cross faces as we got on the bus because we made them wait for us.

Next it was on to Canterbury, where we had lunch and toured the Cathedral. I purchased a copy of The Canterbury Tales, which I don't think I've ever read in its entirety, from the Cathedral's souvenir kiosk.
This was a wonderful day of touring, leaving me absolutely exhausted!

July 12: British Library

Our class trip to the British Library, the national library of Britain, took us to King's Cross Station, home of Harry Potter's 9 3/4 Station. We stopped to take a few pictures and then headed on to the library.



This is a beautiful new facility, started in 1974 and finished in 1998.
The entry includes a large plaza with a striking statue of Newton.


On entering the library, we are asked to show the contents of our purses or backpacks, security measures one would expect in a national library. The first thing we noticed was a bench made to look like a giant book attached to a chain. The next thing that captured our attention was the fabulous "Turning Pages" display in the lobby. It's giant touch screen allows readers to look closely to the print of archival documents, to translate the script, and (most fun) digitally turn the pages! What a fun display. To learn more: http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/ttp/ttpbooks.html

The next striking feature is what our guide later told us is the huge book collection of King George III, which the king donated to the people of England with the stipulation that it be made available to all. It is beautifully displayed for the public in the center of the library within glass walls. We were surprised to learn that patrons can actually handle the items, which are retrieved by the staff and brought to specific reading rooms. Our guide showed us the postage stamp archives, also beautifully displayed in pull-out cases. We were then given a special tour of the inner workings of the library where we saw their delivery system in progress. The library maintains a goal of service that processes a readers card within 20 minutes and a requested item within 70 minutes of the reservation. We were taken on a tour of the reading rooms, shown the world's largest atlas (!) and then invited to explore the exhibit halls. I did ask our guide why it is so hard to find marc records for British publications (meaning we do lots of original cataloging when purchasing British books). He explained that the records are available but at a cost. ----I guess I'll be doing more original cataloging!

The Treasures of the British Library (also called the Sir John Ritblat Gallery) are treasures indeed. It houses the Magna Carta, a Gutenberg Bible, several original manuscripts by famous British authors, and original scores by famous composers (to name just a few of the items). The library's special exhibit was called The Sacred, a display of ancient artifacts from the Hebrew, Christian and Islamic religions that emphasize the common threads running through all three faiths as well as their shared heritage.

I loved these exhibits, but there was so much to see. I plan on returning to get a reader's card and to take in more of the artifacts. Of course, several of us supported the library by having lunch there and shopping at the gift shop. :-)

British Library website: http://www.bl.uk/

We were given the afternoon to explore London, so Edie and I decided to go over to Victoria and Albert museum to find a Beatrix Potter display. The display was actually a photography exhibit of photos Potter's father had taken of the family, but it revealed her private side and the family love of photography. I also found a Kate Greenaway illustration on display, which I hope will help with my long paper of British children's awards.

Edie and I also decided that we just HAD to see Harrod's so we worked that in as well. Not so impressive. Huge, like the prices on each item, and elegant but still giving off "tacky" vibes. It was kind of weird, especially when we happened upon the statue erected in tribute to Dodi Fayed and Lady Diana. Though I can appreciate the sentiment and sympathize with the owner's grief, the monument is in really bad taste. I would show a picture, but I think you would have to see it to believe it.

July 13: British Parliament

Our class trip today was to British Parliament where we were given a special of tour of the House of Lords and the House of Commons. http://www.parliament.uk/

The Houses of Parliament are located in Westminster Palace. This was an amazing tour, beginning with an entry into the reception area used by the Queen when she attends the House of Lords. We were then led through the Queen's Robing Room, a lushly decorated room, though a hall of portraits of Kings and Queens and into the House of Lords. It felt incredible to be standing next to the spot the Queen sits in when she is in attendance for the State Opening of Parliament. The room is decorated in red leather seating, rich wood paneling and stained glass windows. The throne area is trimmed with gold (or is it brass?). Our guide explained the procedures of the House when it is in session and how messages from the Queen are sent over to the House of Commons by messenger.

A few facts from our tour and from the brochure about the House of Lords:

  • There are currently about 740 Members


  • 1999 House of Lords Act- removed the right of all but 92 hereditary peers to sit and vote in the House


  • The three main parties: Conservative, Labour and Liberal Democrat


  • Peers with no party affiliation: Crossbenchers


  • The Lord Speaker presides over business but has no power to control proceedings.


After walking through the central rotunda, we were led into the House of Commons. (I stopped at the statue of Winston Churchill to give it the obligatory rub on the foot.) This chamber has a simplier look to it: green leather seating and wood paneling, but lacking the ornate details of the House of Lords.

Facts about the House of Commons from our guide and the brochure:

  • There is seating room for only 437 of the 646 Members of Parliament


  • The room functions as a debating chamber and is known for its lively debate


  • The Speaker presides over the proceding from the Speaker's Chair at the end of the Table of the House and has the duty of keeping order in debate and calling on MP's (Members of Parliament)to speak


  • The government in power sits to the Speaker's right and the Oppositions sits on the left


  • The House of Commons was heavily damaged during the bombing London in 1941.



We said goodbye to our guide at theWestminster Hall or Great Hall, which is the remaining section of the medieval castle. The walls date back to 1097. The Hall was the site of several famous trials in British history, including the trial of Thomas More. It has hosted several exhibits in recent years, and offers an exhibit of the history of the slave trade and the anti-slavery movement in England in honor of bicentenary of the British Parliamentary abolition of the slave trade.



Took lots of pictures of Big Ben!!

July 10 : Day trip to Stratford-on-Avon



This was such an exciting day. To finally be seeing the birthplace of Shakespeare! The whole day was about the Bard. First, we toured his home and learned about the history of the house and its restoration.






One of the day's special highlights was finding the Shakespeare Centre Library. The librarians there were very gracious and took the time to answer our questions about the collection (covers all aspects of Shakespeare's life, work and times, works by his contemporaries and Shakespeare sources, and an archive of performances by the Royal Shakespeare Company.)

After also investigating the quaint shops of Stratford, we then toured the home of Shakespeare's daughter Susan and saw the location of his second home (New Place, which is no longer standing but where some of the garden still remains). My group of lady friends and I then visited Trinity Chapel to see the graves of Shakespeare, his wife Anne, his daughter Susan and her husband (an fascinating and well-respected physician of his day).

Facts I learned about Shakespeare: he came from a fairly well-to-do working class family (his father was a glove maker/leathersmith as well as a leader in the community); though the famous bequeathing of his "second-best bed" to his wife sounded like an insult, the second-best bed would have been hers since the first-best bed was customarily reserved for company; his daughter Susan was well-respected and as honored as a woman of her day was allowed to be.

To read more about the Royal Shakespeare Trust, the organization that maintains and supports homes and library we visited today, go to their website at:
http://www.shakespeare.org.uk/main/3/20

A group of us had a good dinner at the well-known pub, The Black Swan/Dirty Duck. The sign at the entrance cleverly shows the Black Swan on the restaurant side but changes to the Dirty Duck on the pub side.

We ended our lovely day by attending the Royal Shakespeare Company's production of MacBeth. This was a unique telling of the telling of a timeless play with a mixture of modern with medieval elements in the costumes and character presentation.

July 9: London Alive #1: The River Runs Through It






My first London Alive event was a tranquil riverboat ride on the Thames River (Libby, Nancy and me in front of the Tower Bridge).





It provided a wonderful view of London and many of its most famous sites. Most memorable was the Tower of London with the view of the Traitor's Gate.


Most striking---the variety of architectural designs seen from the Thames.

We ended our tour in Greenwich, where we were supposed to visit the Royal Observatory, but ran out of time. We were able to have a quick break and then we needed to quickly catch the train back to Waterloo in order to be ready for the the evening reception.

I wish I had thoughts to share about the reception, but unfortunately, my jet lag hit hard on Monday and I was too exhausted to go. I went straight to bed after coming back from our boat ride. Sounds like I missed some good food!

Monday, 16 July 2007

July 7: Arriving in England!

After a long, but restful flight (slept almost the whole way), we arrived in London's Gatwick airport. Some of the other passengers were also coming over for the British Studies program so I knew I wasn't alone.

We were warmly greeted by one of our coordinators and ushered through the airport and onto buses. We were finally heading through the streets of London! The weather cooperated in setting the mood by being overcast and grey.

My first impression was of the architecture: so many beautiful old brick building mixed in with modern structures. Also, my first experience with riding on the left side of the road!

We were assigned our rooms: simple but functional. It's been a LONG time since I experienced dorm life! I have a beautiful view out of my window, however, of a preschool across the way. This is a very busy street, with all types of British folk hurrying back and forth in the morning and evening, probably to the nearby bus stop. After hours and on weekends, there are crowds of people going over to the White Hart, a small restaurant and pub down the street.

I was thrilled to finally meet some of my professors from USM. As an online student, they have been friendly names at the other end of chats and emails, so to meet Dr. Welsh and Ms. Wright was wonderful. They took us on a brief tour of the area to help us find the essentials: ATM's, the subway station (the Underground) at nearby Waterloo, and grocery stores.

It's been an eventful day---I'm tired but can't wait to begin my British adventure!

P.S. This is definitely a work in progress--my first blog experience. I am editing and re-editing before posting, so please ignore the sequence of posting dates.